Memories of Belize
My
first morning in the rainforest of San Ignacio, Belize, I awoke to the sounds
of birds chirping and the barking of our neighbors, the howlers, high up in the
trees of the jungle surrounding a panoramic view of the Macal River. We stayed
in a cabin near the river, providing a primitive setting that brought us close
to nature for the first half of our visit.
The
riverbank nestled in the rainforest, and the sun shone through the trees with a
golden glow. The sounds echoed in the open air of the howlers who made their
presence known. The guys discovered a hanging rope from which they swung into
the river to see who could land the furthest out into the water.
A
highlight was the tour of Xunantunich Ruins of where the climax
was climbing to the top of El Castillo (the castle). A hand-cranked
ferry carried us across the Mopan River. From there, we continued to the ruins
passing a family of howlers up in a tree. Of course, we jumped out of the van
to see the monkeys. Our tour guide advised, “You don’t want to go directly
underneath them. Monkeys don’t wear diapers. When they have to go, they just
go.” Living in Belize, he was familiar with the monkeys!
Xunantunich means Stone Woman in Mopan (Yucatec Mayan language). Our
tour guide explained that Stone Woman refers to the ghost of a
woman dressed entirely in white with glowing red eyes. She generally appears in
front of El Castillo, ascends the stone stairs, and disappears into a stone
wall.
The
most famous building in Xunantunich is El Castillo, a pyramid soaring 130 feet
above the main plaza. El Castillo is remarkable due to its large stucco frieze
on its eastern side that details stories of the gods and stories from Maya
creationist myths.
The
nine rooms of the royal palace represented the nine chambers of the underworld.
The Mayans believed that close friends of the emperor lived in this palace. We
climbed the wide, steep stone steps to the ledge and then made our way further
up the palace. From that point, we hiked to the back of the castle. We climbed
up another set of steep steps to a ledge and then further up passing through
doorways ascending to the top where we took in the fantastic view that
stretched beyond the border of Guatemala. We were on top of the
world!
Another
highlight was a tour through a sacrificial cave, Actun Tunichil Muknal
(ATM), where the Mayans brought food and drinks as offerings to the
gods for rain.
We walked two miles on a dusty trail in between three
river crossings to the entrance of the cave. When we came to the first crossing,
our tour guide, Abraham led the way
through the roaring river with a chilling water level up to my chin. Fortunately, each
crossing had a rope to hold, and that’s just what I did as I dog-paddled to
the end. We continued the trail until the second river crossing,
which, to my delight, was ankle-deep.
After more hiking, we came to the third crossing and, surprise, it was also
ankle deep!
Now
that we went through three river crossings, I imagined the rest to be of ground
level. To my astonishment, we approached a small spring-fed pool that
required swimming to the inside of the cave. The crystalline water gave hues of
blues and greens, especially at the entrance. At first, I didn’t move, but with
no choice, I took the plunge and swam through the pool to the cave’s entrance
and further inside since the water remained high for part of the way.
The
headlamps attached to our helmets guided us through the dark cave. Bats flew
above us and some rested in holes in the walls. As we walked or swam further
into the cave, things started to get interesting, passing through narrow
passageways.
The
stalactite formations were phenomenal because, according to our guide Abraham, they
grow at a rate of 1/16th inch per year. We
saw some stalactites and stalagmites that grew into each other. Abraham instructed us not to touch these particular sides of the cave because of the oils
from our skin that could impact the formations by stunting the growth.
As
we went more in-depth through the cave, the water level ranged from knee-high
to neck high. We had to climb through narrow, rocky spaces, sometimes
ascending massive tricky rock formations, and swim through tunnels. After about
one-half mile into the cave, it became much more challenging as we approached
the first boulder about 15 feet high. After climbing the wet, slippery boulder,
we hoisted up to the next level, which was very high, where we sat on a ledge, took
off our water shoes, and put on socks for the next half of the dry cave. We climbed a
ramp, holding on to the edge of the cave wall to keep a grip.
Continuing
up to a higher level, we entered the ceremonial chamber where we observed
shards of pottery, ceramic bowls, and jugs that the Mayans brought in for
offerings of food and water to the gods. There were narrow-mouthed pots that
held liquids and wide-mouthed that had contained food.
Abraham
explained how the Mayans performed ceremonial rites to the gods to try to
appease them to get rain during the drought season in the late classic period,
which was about 900 AD. He further explained that when the gods
didn’t give them rain, they started to bring in animals. Human sacrifices were
brought in as well into the ceremonial cavern of young deformed skulls.
As
we continued to walk further into the cave, we saw the first set of scattered bones,
deformed skulls, and human remains for live sacrifices. The Mayans brought into
the cave typically young, strong children, usually of royal families, because
they were more valuable to the gods.
Continuing,
we climbed a ladder up to the rear of the highest level of the cave. There, we
saw a whole skeleton that was probably a sacrificial victim whose bones have been
given a sparkling appearance by centuries of calcification, referred to as the Crystal
Maiden. We took a few moments to gaze at the highlight of our tour
before descending the ladder, walking back to the ledge where we took off our
socks and put on water shoes. The dry part of the cave had passed. Now, we
would return to the water and make our way out of the cave. The ATM cave tour was the most adventurous part of our trip, and I was proud of myself for taking the challenge and surviving!
From
the rainforest of San Ignacio, we transferred to the Caribbean coast of
Placencia to spend the remainder of our trip at a beach house. The scenery was
full of palm trees, white sandy beaches, black frigate birds, and brown
pelicans flying over the waters and floating in the sea soaking up the sun.
On
our last day in Belize, we rode on a fisherman’s boat across the sea to a small
private island, Ranguana Caye, for a day of fun and relaxation. The
small island provided a paradisal setting as an ending to our Belize vacation.
By Linda A. Egelston